2019 Knoll Loibenberg Federspiel Riesling
Emmerich Knoll makes arguably the greatest classically-styles wines in Austria.
Their regiment is decidedly old school Wachau, with a reliance on large oak casks for maturation and release dates that are significantly later than some of their neighbours who prefer stainless steel and a quicker turnaround. As a result, the wines develop glacially and can confound even the most die-hard Austrian wine geeks. As anyone who has had the privilege of tasting many older bottles will tell you, though, these are wines that reward patience.
They have access to the greatest vineyard sites in the region. Loibenberg is no exception. The ancient dry stone walls (some are dating back to the 14th century) reach up to 420m above sea level and it has the capacity to create some of the ripest and most exotic wines the estate makes.
The Federspiel bottling is more reserved. It is medium-bodied, intense and mineral but rather light and elegant on the palate. Fine tannins, lean, straight, pure and clear: a classic in top form.