2019 Frédéric Cossard Bourgogne Bedeau – Qvevris
Cossard is famous for producing arguably the best natural wines in Burgundy. He has been organic from the outset using homeopathic remedies in place of systemic chemicals and the most diligent winery practices in place of sulphur. These are truly captivating and rare natural Burgundies. They are some of the hardest wines to find in France and are, in many ways, the ultimate insider wines.
The eponymous wines of Cossard are made from grapes taken from vineyards that Fred doesn't own. The quality is still super high but in France, vignerons are required by law to differentiate the labels of wines that come from vineyard they own and don't own.
From a number of plots of old vines in and around Volnay, this is deeper, darker and more fruit driven than its predecessor. As with the Bigotes above, I think of this wine whenever I crave a cool, refreshing glass of red Burgundy; this has energy, style, perfume and poise. It's satisfying and stimulating all at once.
It's worth noting this is the special qvevri-aged bottling that is even more expressive and rare than the regular cuvée.