2017 Pattes Loup Chablis 'Vents d'Ange'
It's fair to say that Thomas Pico of Pattens Loup is the original Chablis revolutionary. Based in the natural wine hotbed of Courgis, Pico began a movement away from overcropped, insipid 'mineral' Chablis and towards wines made with properly ripe grapes and fruit. He believed that what others were calling minerality was simply the flavour that you're left with when you use underripe grapes that haven't had the chance to develop fruit.
That's not to say that the Vents d'Ange is fruity. It's not. It's beautifully balanced, ethereal and built to age for many years. The minerality here comes from the amazing Kimmerigian soils and nothing else.