2017 Descombes Brouilly 'Vielles Vignes' Magnum
Georges Descombes is the unofficial 5th member of the famed ‘Gang of Four’ (Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thévenet and Guy Breton) who shook things up in the late eighties by returning to the old practices of viticulture and vinification.
As soon as Georges took over the estate from his father in the late eighties he immediately started shifting viticultural and oenological practices forward. In the winery, he uses very little (or no) sulphur and eschews filtration. Where his style differs from his peers is that he leaves the must to undergo cold carbonic maceration for a whole 30 days. He then ages his wines for around a year (in barrels for the Vieilles Vignes) prior to bottling. Further extended ageing in bottle helps these natural wines to stabilise and develop.
The resulting wines are amazingly fresh and mineral whilst having the structure to age. This old vine Brouilly in particular is absolutely killer.