2018 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Trocken Riesling

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These are Rieslings for lovers of acid. Dry, powerful, complex. These are the vinous equivalent of Warhead lollies and will appeal only to the purists. Cult wines for people who have grown tired of wines that don't kick you over with their brilliance.

Here are the things that make Hansjorg Rebholz better than almost everyone else in German winemaking: He farms biodynamically; he never chaptalises or de-acidifies (did we mention he loves acid?); and all his Rieslings are fermented in stainless steel because he this leads to the greatest purity, clarity and precision.

The 2018 Trocken Riesling is a textured, layered, complex wine from the Pfalz region just over the mountains from Alsace in southern Germany. It's the entry point of his range but it is anything but entry level. White stone fruits are lined up with lime and grapefruit characters to make for an killer nose. The palate is sleek and racy. Fine long acidity provides a backdrop for mouth-filling fruit intensity.