First things first. Joshua is the son of biodynamic winemaking royalty. His folks over at Cobaw Ridge are members of the super-exclusive Renaissance des Appellations group, along with only three other producers in Australia. But if we’re being fair, his wines have been at least as good as Cobaw Ridge for a while now. There’s a level of detail and complexity to these wines that I think trumps the purity of his parents’.
He works with fruit taken from vineyards in his native Macedon Ranges and a couple of other sites across central and western Victoria. All vineyards that he works with are farmed in ways that are environmentally sensitive, although he doesn’t go as far as working entirely with biodynamically certified fruit like his folks.
Some people would call these Natural Wines. We’d call them incredibly delicious, thoughtfully made, intricate, refreshing and worth holding onto for as long as you can hold out for! They’re a great example of wines that are so much more than the labels we attach to them. They’re powerful, but delicate, complex, but also easy to enjoy. They’re future classics. None more so than what is arguably this year’s star bottling, the 2019 Joshua Cooper ‘Cope-Williams Romsey Vineyard’ Chardonnay. It’s a ripper.
We’ve also got wine from Dilworth and Allain, Josh’s close mates, who he shares a vineyard or two with. They’re also very good wines and worthy of your attention. The skin contact Riesling in particular is incredible and totally different to anything that Josh does.